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Shanty Soundtrack

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HMCS Ville de Quebec
So I've been able to do some pretty cool trips during the past four years in Africa. My five days aboard a Canadian frigate, HMCS Ville de Quebec, were probably among the most fun. The frigate was pulled away from its Nato duties in the Med a couple of months ago in order to escort WFP deliveries of food into Mogadishu. The ship is due to head back towards the Med at the weekend, leaving aid officials wondering how they will manage to feed Somalia's starving millions. (Although it's starting to sound like the Canadians will stay on...) Anyway, while my "rack" was anything but luxurious, I have to say that life on board for visitors was pretty good. I ate some of the best cake I've had in Africa (or slightly off the coast of Africa, I guess) which apparently had come all the way from Canada in the freezer and it turns out that there's much more to Canadian beer than watery Labatts. But the best bit of all was discovering that sea shanties are still enjoyed by the sailors below decks. I had loaded up my iPod with Johnny Depp's Pirates of the Caribbean tie-in project (excellent by the way), and frankly wondered whether I was being a bit stupid to imagine that today's sailors still listened to songs of the sea. Turns out they do. Much of it comes from Newfoundland, as do many of the crew. Great Big Sea who blend traditional seafaring songs with a modern edge were rarely off the iPod in the Main Cave, where the sailors relax over a Keith's. Stan Rogers has a more more straightforward sound, but best of all were the Irish Descendants, every bit as raucous as you'd expect. For someone brought up with The Dubliners and The Chieftains its great to stumble across a new chunk of related music. And even better to know that these songs are still being written, performed and enjoyed by new generations - and that this is not just museum music.

16 Comments

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Toaf | September 22, 2008 11:55 AM | Reply

I imagined you and the boys all singing 'Barrett's Privateers', actually.

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Barry Malone | September 22, 2008 12:07 PM | Reply

Very, very cool, my friend. I'm back in the aul sod for a holiday and have been busy picking up some decent trad to bring back to Addis with me. But, coming from a line of Irish sailing stock, I'm definitely going to get my hands on some of this stuff.



Hope all is well.

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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 4:40 PM | Reply

Booze on a warship? I thought that was a big no-no?

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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 4:51 PM | Reply

The Yank ships are dry. But you will of course remember that British sea power relied heavily on the rum ration - sadly withdrawn in 1972 for the Canadian navy. They are also limited to two beers a night during the present mission, which has irritated some of the chaps as there was no limit, I gather, when they were in the Med. So we had a civilised couple of wet ones each evening. No more. All very disciplined. These are professional guys.



And Barry, I had my first draft Guinness (albeit from a can) in a year. It went down very well indeed.




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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 5:07 PM | Reply

Guess how much a Guinness will cost you in my local pub in Toulouse?

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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 5:13 PM | Reply

Ha ha. I once bought a pint of Guinness on the Champs Elysee. I seem to recall it was the equivalent of about £8. That was about 10 years ago. But what the blazes was I doing... Go on then, scare me

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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 5:19 PM | Reply

About right. I think it was €9. I went once a year ago and never ever went back.



Those widget cans cost about €1.80 in the supermarket I think, but I don't really go for the can stuff.



The African foodstuff store sells those Guinness bottles for a Euro or so. But I normally have one in London if there's nowt better on offer.

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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 5:28 PM | Reply

There's loads of Guinness drunk here but its 1% stronger and pretty foul-tasting. Don't mind the draft cans actually

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Tamar | September 22, 2008 6:26 PM | Reply

so, you're back! there goes a really good story.

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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 6:36 PM | Reply

Thanks. Sorry to disappoint you

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Tamar | September 22, 2008 6:51 PM | Reply

just joking, glad to see you're back in 1 piece, we've had our Alan Johnston already, no need for more

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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 7:27 PM | Reply

I wouldn't be silly enough to actually set foot in the place...

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Tamar | September 22, 2008 8:08 PM | Reply

you mean Somalia or Gaza or both?


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Anonymous | September 22, 2008 8:13 PM | Reply

Mogadishu

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Barry | September 27, 2008 4:13 PM | Reply

Breaking Guinness records for Guinness drinking right now -- mindful of the fact that it's back to Bati and Castel from next week...

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Anonymous | September 28, 2008 8:51 AM | Reply

Will you be having one more for me? Sorrry, silly question

What do you think?